More on Guadalajara

Today was my last day in Guadalajara and it was a hot one!  This morning, it was still cool and I walked to the Hospicio Cabanas.  This is the best thing I’ve done in this city.  Well, then there is the tequila tour yesterday... but that’s outside of town.  This place was built in 1796 and started as an orphanage.  In 1937, Jose Clemente Orozco painted the inside of the Main Chapel.  It is an amazing work of art!  In 1983, it became a museum and because of its architectural beauty, history and culture, in 1997,  it was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO.  It hosts a variety of famous artists and currently exhibits works by Mario Martin del Campo, Carlos Terres and Erik Gjerdevik.  At least these are the ones that really spoke to me.  The grounds emcompassed more than 100 rooms and have 23 courtyards. I spent a couple of hours there.  If you’re in Guadalajara, you have to go.

In the afternoon, I visited Ttaquepaque and Tolana.  It was so hot though.  I liked the first one.  It had a nice plaza and some cool stores.  The latter had a big market that is held on Thursdays and Sundays only.  It was a lot of the same thing and sometimes I wondered if the stuff was made in Mexico or China... I could have skipped Tolana and sip margaritas by the pool.

Overall, this city is not my favorite.  It is too big and crazy for me.  It has some nice architecture and I know I’ve missed a few good places but I’m ready to leave tomorrow.  Adios Jalisco.

Tequila and Larry...

Yesterday was a good day and a sad day all at once...The good part was that I got to go to Tequila.  If you know me, you know I’ve always loved tequila!  So going to the mother land was something special.  Now the sad part of my day was when I found out later in the afternoon that Larry Harvey, the founder of Burning Man, passed away in the morning...  This man created something that deeply touched many people, including me.  He basically changed my life and I believe kept me in the states probably longer than I would have stayed if Burning Man didn’t become such a big part of my life.  I’ve never met him but only saw him briefly when I cooked for First Camp kitchen one year. I know he ate my food a few times.  But mostly on the go as he was often busy and putting out fires.  I will always be so grateful for what he started and the hard work he put into it.

So it was a sweet-and-sour day.  Maybe all that drinking and cheering was to celebrate the life of this man...

I got picked up in the morning by Pako from Gdl Adventure.  He took a group of us, 13 to be exact, on a tour to Tequila! Our first stop was at Selecto Hacienda in Amatitan.  They were waiting for us with a large selection of single, double and triple distilled, blanco, repesado, anejo and extra-anejo tequilas!  I’m just glad I had a big breakfast!  Then they also had a variety of flavored tequila.  They were all pretty good, the grounds were pretty and we all became quick friends.

From there, we went to the town of Tequila and directly to La Alborada Destiliara.  We were greeted by Juan, El Diablo as Pako likes to call him.  He gave us a tour of the grounds and explained to us how tequila is made.  It was very informative and then we found out how he got his nickname... We started another tasting and he made sure that we all left even happier than we arrived.  I also got picked to demonstrate how to properly drink our first shot...

We then had lunch in a small market.  We spent some time in the main square of town, in front of the church.  The way all Mexican cities are built.  At least the ones I have visited so far.  We returned to Guadalajara around 7pm.  I had dinner and that was the end of my special day...  Cheers to a great man, I will keep on burning, RIP Larry.

Guadalajara

I arrived here yesterday late afternoon and right off the bat, I was stuck in traffic...  After spending some quiet time in Punta Mita, this city is a big contrast.  I’m glad I was not driving!  Once we hit downtown, it was a mess.  Surprisingly enough, my hotel right in the middle of it all, is very quiet. Morales Historic Hotel is in an old historic building with courtyards and I feel like I’m in a little pocket of heaven.  Right outside the door, you definitely know you are in the 2nd biggest city in Mexico.

So this morning, I escaped and went to Lake Chapala.  It was a breath of fresh air, literally, as the wind comes off the water and cools the city down.  It was nice to take a walk on the malecon and have a quick lunch.  I also got to experience Los Voladores de Papantla.  These guys are awesome.  They play music and fly... I tried to upload a video but it’s not working so here are some pictures.

Upon returning to Guadalajara, I took a little siesta and then walked in El Centro.  There are some beautiful buildings here and the cathedral is gorgeous.  Mexican can make some impressive churches and good tequila.  Tomorrow, I’m going out-of-town again and visit the latter.

Punta Mita

For more than 20 years I’ve had the pleasure to work for and become friends with Anne Crawford.  To me Annie.  She’s always been so generous to me, letting me host classes in her beautiful homes in Ocean Ranch and then The Strand in Dana Point. For years, she talked about and invited me to come to her home in Punta de Mita.  Finally, I made it here.  And oh boy, I have lived in luxury for the last 3 days!!  This place is magical.  Right on the water in a very exclusive neighborhood.  I am not used to have someeone making my bed everyday, cooking wonderful breakfasts, lunches and dinners and just lounging around... But let me tell you, it is super nice and I’m loving it!  Estela, the house manager is a very sweet lady and she makes sure this place is pristine and she and her staff are here for our every need.  Carole, Leslie and I haven been spoiled!  This is México in a way I will not experience again anytime soon but I am enjoying every breath and every bite...

Yesterday, Annie took us to Sayulita.  It is a cute little town on the water.  Very popular and busy with tourists.  Estela and her husband, Pepe, who is the chef at the house, owner of  Turquoise Cafe and Deli in town and the previous executive chef from the Four Seasons, took us to Si Senor on the beach in Punta Mita.  What a feast we had!! Thank you Pepe!  What a treat!!

We spent the rest of the afternoon visiting the fancy hotels and beach clubs in the neighborhood.

Of course it was another wonderful evening listening to the wave crashing, enjoying Veuve Cliquot and exquisite food.

Thank you so much Annie for your love, kindness and generosity... Always... And also Thank you to Estela and Pepe and the rest of the staff for your attention to details, your kindness and generosity!  I know I’m repeating myself but I don’t take this for granted and will always remember my time here.  Muchas Gracias!!!

Last couple days around San Miguel

On Saturday, I went out of San Miguel to visit two churches in the nearby neighborhoods of Atotonilco and Dolores Hidalgo.  Both were very impressive.  The murals in the Santuario de la Patria are just out of this world.  It is like the Sistine Chapel of Mexico.  I didn’t understand the whole history about it, the whole tour was in Spanish and I was mesmerized by the paintings... A fun fact I remember is that the walls were covered with candle soot and they got cleaned using soft bread!

From there we stopped in Gabriel to check out a ceramic factory.  Very traditional Mexican handmade potteries.

We then headed to the town of Dolores Hidalgo to visit yet another gorgeous church.  There was an ice cream festival in town and I got to try my first gordita! I won’t tell you what it was made of unless you ask...

On Sunday morning before I left, I strolled around the botanical gardens of San Miguel.  It was a good ending to a wonderful time I had in this charming town.  I want to go back already...

The evenings in San Miguel

I’ve been here a week and I wish I were here a month... both my Spanish and my soul would appreciate staying a bit longer.  My days have been filled with Spanish classes in the morning, strolling around town in the afternoon, making tamales, learning to make enchiladas, working on my pronunciation along Mexican songs and taking siestas!

I went out a few times in the evening this week and it always felt safe and pleasant after the hotter afternoons.  The first time, it was just across the street to the bibliotheca for a concert of gitane guitar.   The building has some beautiful frescas (pictures not allowed) and we sat in a small room for a very personable recital.

Another night, Frank, one of my fellow student, invited all of the students to attend a cocktail party in his gorgeous home. His wife Graciella is a wonderful cook and prepared some delicious appetizers for us to enjoy. They live in the Balcones, above the town of San Miguel.   It was a fun evening with great people and a sprawling view of San Miguel in a setting out of a magazine!  Thank you Frank and Graciela!

On Friday night, Rowan, my housemate, and I went to el Jardin in front of the Parroquia.  It’s a very busy and animated place most days of the week and especially on Friday and Saturday nights.  We were able to witness at least 6 pre-weddings ceremonies!  Usually small groups of people help the bride and groom get ready for their special day. It’s a celebration in itself. There are always a donkey, some mariachis, two puppets representing the bride and groom and of course, tequila.  People dance and parade through the streets starting at the park.

In between celebrations, the Ballet Folklorico gave a show with colorful and traditional dances.

I look forward to one more night in this warm and inviting city...

San Miguel de Allende

I arrived here on Sunday afternoon via Leon and settled in my new home for the week.  Marina and Ernesto are hosting me while I go to school at Habla Hispana down the street in El Centro de San Miguel. The location is fantastic, Marina is a great cook and also does my laundry!  The school is really nice, the professors are helpful and the other students very friendly.  I’m so glad I chose this program.  I only wish I was here longer...

San Miguel de Allende is an exquisite town filled with history, earthly colors, cobblestone-lined streets and plenty of the infamous doors!  If you’ve never been, you should go.  I won’t be exploring much of the restaurant scene as I am very happy with Marina’s cooking but there seems to be some casual and elegant places to enjoy.

I will keep it short and just put up the collages I have made with the pictures Ive taken in the last 3 days.  I have more to discover and definitively more Spanish to learn...

Last day in Guadalupe

I really fell in love with the Valle.  It is so beautiful and tranquille there.  Unpretentious and rustic yet the wineries are refined, at least the ones we visited.  On Friday morning, we started our day with a late breakfast at La Cocina de Dona Estela.  It is a large restaurant at the end of a dirt road famous for their lamb.  It was indeed delicious, tender with bits of crispy pieces.  They are also known for their pancakes with corn.  The postes were top-notch as well.

From there we made a stop at Alximia.  This state-of-the-art winery is made out of concrete and looks like a spaceship.  We made a quick stop to admire the architecture and the stainless-steel tanks.

We headed back towards the ocean and arrived at Cuatro Cuatros.  The property is huge and perched over the ocean.  You’ll have to drive through it and then take their bus to access their restaurant/bar which offers magnificent views of the coast.  We lingered there for a few hours enjoying food, wine and mezcal.  A perfect day to spend the afternoon with friends.  We thought making reservation and coming back for sunset would be a good thing to do at a later date.

In the meantime, we went to Fauna at Bruma.  This was the perfect place for our last dinner in the Valle.  David the general manager was very nice and knowledgeable and took very good care of us.  The place is the quintessential Valle restaurant combining refininement with fantastic food in a rustic and unpretentious setting with a lot of class.  It was the perfect end to our time in the Valle.

Mas Baja

Wednesday morning, Gloria took me to La Bufadora.  The tide was low so the water was not blowing much but it was a beautiful day and of course, the food was fantastic.  We had some of the clams they stuff and cook right there and some fantastic tacos.

In the afternoon, Jib, Noi, Amanda and Ed joined in on our Baja experience.  We met back in the Valle where we rented a nice big house and headed to Deckman’s for an excellent dinner.  Now that there are 6 of us, we can share many more dishes!!  It was a beautiful evening in a rustic environment with elegant food.

Thursday morning we headed back down to Ensenada to the fish market.  Wow!  I wish the ocean off the coast of California was as untouched as it is here.  The fish choices are just awesome!  We also had some street food at La Guerre Rense. The tostadas were out of this world!  I had the cod and octopus one and what can I say, it was just delicious.

We came back to the Valle in the afternoon and visited a friend of Ed’s that moved here from Newport Beach.  He build his house out of clay and kept on going and building more and started to make wine as a hobbie.  Well let me tell you that he makes excellent red wines!  Emme gave us a tour of his property and a proper tasting of his wines.  We lingered there for a few hours and had a delightful time.  Please go visit him at Sol y Barro,  you won’t regret it.

To end the day, we had dinner at Finca Altozano and add another amazing dinner.  The chocolate clams, beef cheeks, lamb and duck confit with mole were my favorite.  The wines were good too and eating with a pig by your side...priceless.

The beginning of my Baja adventure...

It has started!  Officially on Monday, April 8, 2018, I drove to Mexico with my good friend and new partner-in-crime for the week, Gloria.  She loves it here and comes often. She wanted to show me around and we didn’t waste anytime and headed to La Fonda for a great late lunch over looking the ocean.  The margaritas and lobsters were excellent!  The beach was perfect and deserted.  I fell in love right away with Baja.

From there, we headed to the house we are renting for the week in El Porvenir, Valle de Guadalupe.  We bought a bottle of tequila and proceeded to lounge around for the rest of the day and evening, enjoying our beverage on the patio and listening to the roosters singing in the background until the wee hours of the night.

On Tuesday, Rhea who was my little angel in San Diego, came down with a friend and the four of us went out in the Valle to look for food.  The wineries and their restaurants usually open around 1pm and sometimes take a day off during the week.  We were heading to Adobe Guadalupe but it was closed.  The guard there directed us to Baron Balche and we had a fantastic lunch at Tahal.  We had escolar sashimi, mussels, cheeses, rib-eye tacos, steak tartare and for some good measures, a plate of vegetables.  Everything was absolutely delicious!!  The wines were pretty good too.  We were very impressed with the food and especially the local cheeses.  The place is beautiful too.  You should visit.

We went down to Ensenada in the afternoon, did some shopping and of course, had more food.  The oysters and clam chowder at La Cocheria were out of this world!!  I’ve never liked clam chowder but this one changed my mind.  We had drinks at Hussong’s which has been there since 1829 and is a local favorite.  Everyone there was having a good time eating peanuts, drinking beers and listening to the mariachis.  We did too!

For dinner, we ended at Boules.  I even got to play pétanque with our cute waiter while the owner took our order.  Then a rich chicken liver pate came our way along with some delicate huitlacoche tacos, an amazing zucchini and sundried tomato salad, small lamb shops and a ribeye steak with fries.  We absolutely loved it all!

I’ll stop here for now because it is Thursday morning and we have to head to Ensenada fish market...