Les Petits Farcis Niçois

Growing up I didn’t want to eat vegetables.  Kind of a kid’s thing I guess.  But my mom didn’t think the same way and made sure I had my daily dose of veggies.  Mostly in a form of vegetable soup.  And mainly every night.  Needless to say, I didn’t like it but my growing up body thanks her now.  If I dont see veggies on my plate after a few days, my body goes into shock...  Sometimes she would make tomatoes and zucchini stuffed with meat, rice, cheese and the inside of the veggies she hollowed out.  Now these veggies I loved and couldn’t stop eating them one after the other, the same way I ate the crepes she also made!!

Fast forward 40 years and I still love my mom’s stuffed tomatoes and zucchini.  I’ve started making them about 20 years ago and there are still some of my favorites things to eat.  Neither of us make them often though. They take time.  This version is a bit faster and you can even cut down on the time by not sautéing or cooking the vegetables ahead of time.  They will render more liquid this way when they are baked but they remain very tasty.  Also there is no rice to cook or cheese to grate in these so that’s even less steps in the process.  So here is my newest version (cause everyone and their mother’s has one!) of the petits farcis niçois (which you find on the menu of a lot of Provençal restaurants in and around Nice).

For about 24 petits farcis

6 very small red onion, peeled

6 to 10 very small tomatoes

6 small round zucchini (or 3 long ones cut into half lenghtwise and thirds crosswise)

6 large white mushrooms

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 

1 pound ground beef

4 ounces herbed sausage

1 slice soft bread, crumbled

1 egg

2/3 cup red wine

1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.  Add salt.  Cut the 1/3 off each onion, tomato and zucchini and reserve.  With a sharp melon baller, remove the inside of the onions leaving about a 1/4-inch shell.  Plunge the shells in the boiling water and cook 5 minutes.  Remove with a slotted spoon.

Place the inside of 4 onions in a food processor.  Discard the inside of the other two.  Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan.  Add the chopped onions and saute for 5 minutes or until soft and starting to brown.  Add the garlic and thyme and cook for 5 more minutes.

Hollow out the tomatoes and zucchini and transfer to the food processor.  Remove the feet from the mushrooms and add them to the processor as well.  Process until chopped.  Not too fine.  Add this to the skillet and cook for 5 minutes, adding salt and pepper.

Plunge the zucchini shells in the boiling water and cook 5 minutes.  Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and set upside down.  Season the tomato shells and mushroom caps with salt and pepper and turn them upside down as well.

Add the red wine to the skillet and cook until evaporated.  Remove the pan from the heat.  Cool slightly and add the meats, bread, egg, and parsley.  Mix well.

Stuff the vegetables with this mixture and place in a large roasting pan.  Place the tops of the onions, tomatoes, and zucchini slightly back on top of the stuffed shells.  

Bake at 180ºC or 350ºF for about 45 minutes to 1 hour.  Halfway through, spoon some of the juices onto each farcis.   Add a bit of water to the pan if needed to deglaze and use this liquid to baste the 

farcis.

The farcis are great reheated in the oven or microwave.  They also freeze really well so make sure to make plenty!!

L'intrus de la ratatouille

Last week I posted a picture on instagram of the making of a traditional provencal dish with an usual item.  It was very good and someone oh-so-cute actually asked for the recipe... so here it is.  Always remember that a classic ratatouille takes 1 kilo (or pound) of the usual suspects: zucchini, eggplants, bell peppers (half red and half green), tomatoes and onions.  Add garlic and herbes de Provence and you're all set.  Saute the ingredients separately at first.  Then simmer them together and like my mom taught me, baking them is best.  Bon Appetit!

 Ratatouille 

 Serves 8-10

1 pound eggplant, diced 3/4-inch

1 pound zucchinis, sliced 1/4-inch

1 pound bell peppers, red and green cut into strips

1 pound tomatoes, diced

1 lb. onions, peeled and sliced

1 large fennel, sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 bay leaf

3 teaspoons dried thyme

1 tablespoon Herbes de Provence

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

            Preheat oven to 400ºF.  In a large frying pan, saute the eggplant in 1 tablespoon of olive oil with 1 teaspoon of thyme, salt and pepper, over medium-high heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.  Set aside.  Repeat with the zucchinis and bell peppers, in the same manner. 

             

            In a large pan, preferably oven-proof, cook the onions, fennel and garlic in 1 tablespoon of olive oil until translucent.  Add the tomatoes, and cook 5 more minutes over high heat.  Add the sauteed vegetables, Herbes de Provence and bay leaf. Mix well, cook on the stove for 5 minutes then cover and bake for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake for 15 more minutes.

            Serve warm, room temperature or cold as a side dish for meat or fish.

            

            (May be made up to 2 days ahead or frozen for 3 months.)

Almost spring...

We had a pretty mild winter on the French Riviera and the transition into spring was gentle and sunny... I thought it was time to take out my light shirts and shorts and start planting some pretty flowers.  But my mom warned me: "The "Cavaliers du Froid" and the "Saints de Glace" were coming.   You can't plant anything before "they" leave (the last one departs May 25!) and because it may freeze and there might be some hail!"  Yeah right.  Well, these old gardeners tales (and mom) still hold some truth and that's a good thing because they also brought with them some much-needed water.  So the weather here on the French Riviera during April and May can be quite changing.  The temperatures are still on the cooler side (compared to my days in Southern California...) and it can rain.

When my aunt visited us this last Sunday, there was a big storm during the night with wind and rain and then we had a beautiful sun come out in the afternoon after our lunch.  Was it that she had only came twice to visit "down here" in the last 20 years or was it the "Cavaliers du Froid"doing their thing?!  We speculated and joked a bit and had a wonderful time eating together and watching the kids play and hug.  It was so nice for me to cook a family dinner for the ones that were able to come.  I used to do it for my friends and clients in California and being able to do it now for my family makes me oh so happy!  And everyone had a great time too and loved everything.

All this talk about the weather and my family to say that it was not quite time for grilling outside!  This is a menu that reflects the transition into spring, that I was able to prepare mostly ahead and that everyone from 5 years old to 85 enjoyed...

Cucumber Slices with Herbed Goat Cheese and Tapenade
Another favorite and easy recipe.  Slices of English or Hot-House cucumber topped with fresh goat cheese mixed with chives and parsley.  A touch of cream to make it smoother to pipe out of a small zip-lock with a cut-corner.  Top with some store-bought black olive tapenade and a small piece of sun-dried tomato.  Assembled a few hours ahead and kept refrigerated.

Roasted Asparagus Wrapped in Proscuitto
And all time California classic for me.  Spears of asparagus (peeled) wrapped in a small piece (about a third of a slice).  Drizzled with some olive oil and baked, on a parchment lined baking sheet, at 400ºF for about 15 minutes.  Assembled a few hours ahead and just baked when needed.

Almonds with Rosemary, Fennel and Parmesan
1 ½ teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary¾ teaspoon kosher salt½ teaspoon fennel seedsFreshly ground black pepper to taste1 egg white1 ½ cups whole almonds¼ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese             Preheat the oven to 300ºF.  Line a baking sheet with silpat. Grind the rosemary, salt, fennel, and pepper in spice grinder.  In a medium bowl, whisk the egg white until it foams.  Add the spices and cheese.  Stir well to combine.  Add the nuts, stirring and tossing to thoroughly coat them.  Spread them in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet.  Bake for 30 minutes, stirring halfway.  The nuts will stick to each other and will need to be separated halfway through.  Slide the nuts, on the silpat, onto a rack to cool.  Store in a screw-top glass jar for a few days.

Butternut Squash Polenta
(Serves 8-10)
1 small butternut squash (About 1 ½ pounds)
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 tablespoons butter
¾ cup finely chopped onion (1 small)
2 ½ cup chicken broth
2 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 ¼ cups cornmeal
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

            Preheat the oven to 400ºF.  Cut the butternut squash in half lengthwise.  Rub with the olive oil and place, cut side down, on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.  Roast for about 30 minutes or until soft.  Cool and then remove the seeds.  Scrape the squash into a bowl and discard the skin.  Mash into a purée.  Cook the onion in the butter in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat, stirring, until very soft, about 8 minutes.  Stir in the squash and cook, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes.  Transfer to a bowl.           

(May be made the day before. Measure all the other ingredients for quick assembly)             

In the same pan, bring the chicken broth, milk, salt and pepper to a boil.  Add the cornmeal in a thin stream, whisking.  Cook the polenta at a bare simmer, stirring with a long-handled whisk and turning down the heat as needed to prevent spattering, about 5 minutes.  Stir in the squash mixture and cook 3 minutes.  Remove from the heat, stir in the cheese and serve immediately.

Stewed Sausage with Peppers and Swiss Chard
About 12 to 15 sausages, depending on the size.  I used a mix chipolatas and merguez...  in the states it would be some herbed italian and spicy lamb sausages.  You may use any type of pork, chicken or lamb sausages you like.  Pierce them and brown in a large dutch oven.  Remove from the pan and add a couple of sliced onions, 3 large peppers, sliced and the sliced stems of the chard.  Saute in olive oil with some salt, pepper and herbes de Provence until starting to soften and brown.  Add 6 chopped garlic cloves and the coarsely chopped green parts of the chard.  Cook covered for about 5 minutes.  Add the sausages and cook gently to finish cooking the sausages.  May be made ahead and gently reheat before serving.

Chocolate Fudge Bars
1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 cups packed brown sugar

2 eggs

2 tsp. vanilla extract

2 1/2 cups flour (I used petit épeautre which is a low gluten artisanal wheat flour.  But regular flour is very good too...)

1 teaspoon baking soda

3 cups quick-cooking rolled oats

1 (14 ounces) can sweetened condensed milk

1 (12 ounces) package semisweet chocolate chips

1 cup chopped walnuts

2 teaspoons vanilla ( I used vanilla sugar here)

            For the Chocolate Fudge Bars:  Preheat the oven to 350ºF.  Set aside 2 Tbsp. of the butter.  In a large mixing bowl, beat the remaining butter with an electric mixer on medium speed for 30 seconds.  Add the brown sugar; beat until well mixed.  Beat in the eggs and 2 tsp. vanilla.

In another bowl, stir together the flour and baking soda; stir in the oats.  Gradually stir the dry mixture into the beaten mixture. Set aside.

            In a medium saucepan, combine the reserved butter, condensed milk and chocolate pieces.  Cook over low heat until the chocolate melts, stirring occasionally.  Remove from the heat.  Stir in the walnuts and the remaining 2 tsp. of vanilla.

            Press two-thirds of the oat mixture into an 15-by-10-by-1-inch baking sheet lined with parchment paper.  Spread the chocolate mixture over it.  Dot the remaining oat mixture over the chocolate. 

            Bake about 25 minutes or until the top is lightly browned (the chocolate mixture will still look moist).  Cool on a wire rack.  Remove from the baking sheet with the parchment and cut into bars.

            (May be made up to two days ahead and kept at room temperature in an airtight container.)

            For the Glazed Strawberries:  Chill a plate in the refrigerator.  Wash the berries, and dry them thoroughly with paper towels.

            Place the currant jelly in a saucepan, and warm it over low heat until it has melted and is smooth.

            Holding the berries by their stems, dip them, one at a time, in the jelly.  When they are thoroughly coated, left the berries out and drain off any excess jelly and transfer to the cold plate.  Refrigerate until ready to serve.

            (May be made two hours ahead.)