Les Petits Farcis Niçois

Growing up I didn’t want to eat vegetables.  Kind of a kid’s thing I guess.  But my mom didn’t think the same way and made sure I had my daily dose of veggies.  Mostly in a form of vegetable soup.  And mainly every night.  Needless to say, I didn’t like it but my growing up body thanks her now.  If I dont see veggies on my plate after a few days, my body goes into shock...  Sometimes she would make tomatoes and zucchini stuffed with meat, rice, cheese and the inside of the veggies she hollowed out.  Now these veggies I loved and couldn’t stop eating them one after the other, the same way I ate the crepes she also made!!

Fast forward 40 years and I still love my mom’s stuffed tomatoes and zucchini.  I’ve started making them about 20 years ago and there are still some of my favorites things to eat.  Neither of us make them often though. They take time.  This version is a bit faster and you can even cut down on the time by not sautéing or cooking the vegetables ahead of time.  They will render more liquid this way when they are baked but they remain very tasty.  Also there is no rice to cook or cheese to grate in these so that’s even less steps in the process.  So here is my newest version (cause everyone and their mother’s has one!) of the petits farcis niçois (which you find on the menu of a lot of Provençal restaurants in and around Nice).

For about 24 petits farcis

6 very small red onion, peeled

6 to 10 very small tomatoes

6 small round zucchini (or 3 long ones cut into half lenghtwise and thirds crosswise)

6 large white mushrooms

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 

1 pound ground beef

4 ounces herbed sausage

1 slice soft bread, crumbled

1 egg

2/3 cup red wine

1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.  Add salt.  Cut the 1/3 off each onion, tomato and zucchini and reserve.  With a sharp melon baller, remove the inside of the onions leaving about a 1/4-inch shell.  Plunge the shells in the boiling water and cook 5 minutes.  Remove with a slotted spoon.

Place the inside of 4 onions in a food processor.  Discard the inside of the other two.  Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan.  Add the chopped onions and saute for 5 minutes or until soft and starting to brown.  Add the garlic and thyme and cook for 5 more minutes.

Hollow out the tomatoes and zucchini and transfer to the food processor.  Remove the feet from the mushrooms and add them to the processor as well.  Process until chopped.  Not too fine.  Add this to the skillet and cook for 5 minutes, adding salt and pepper.

Plunge the zucchini shells in the boiling water and cook 5 minutes.  Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and set upside down.  Season the tomato shells and mushroom caps with salt and pepper and turn them upside down as well.

Add the red wine to the skillet and cook until evaporated.  Remove the pan from the heat.  Cool slightly and add the meats, bread, egg, and parsley.  Mix well.

Stuff the vegetables with this mixture and place in a large roasting pan.  Place the tops of the onions, tomatoes, and zucchini slightly back on top of the stuffed shells.  

Bake at 180ºC or 350ºF for about 45 minutes to 1 hour.  Halfway through, spoon some of the juices onto each farcis.   Add a bit of water to the pan if needed to deglaze and use this liquid to baste the 

farcis.

The farcis are great reheated in the oven or microwave.  They also freeze really well so make sure to make plenty!!

L'intrus de la ratatouille

Last week I posted a picture on instagram of the making of a traditional provencal dish with an usual item.  It was very good and someone oh-so-cute actually asked for the recipe... so here it is.  Always remember that a classic ratatouille takes 1 kilo (or pound) of the usual suspects: zucchini, eggplants, bell peppers (half red and half green), tomatoes and onions.  Add garlic and herbes de Provence and you're all set.  Saute the ingredients separately at first.  Then simmer them together and like my mom taught me, baking them is best.  Bon Appetit!

 Ratatouille 

 Serves 8-10

1 pound eggplant, diced 3/4-inch

1 pound zucchinis, sliced 1/4-inch

1 pound bell peppers, red and green cut into strips

1 pound tomatoes, diced

1 lb. onions, peeled and sliced

1 large fennel, sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 bay leaf

3 teaspoons dried thyme

1 tablespoon Herbes de Provence

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

            Preheat oven to 400ºF.  In a large frying pan, saute the eggplant in 1 tablespoon of olive oil with 1 teaspoon of thyme, salt and pepper, over medium-high heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.  Set aside.  Repeat with the zucchinis and bell peppers, in the same manner. 

             

            In a large pan, preferably oven-proof, cook the onions, fennel and garlic in 1 tablespoon of olive oil until translucent.  Add the tomatoes, and cook 5 more minutes over high heat.  Add the sauteed vegetables, Herbes de Provence and bay leaf. Mix well, cook on the stove for 5 minutes then cover and bake for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake for 15 more minutes.

            Serve warm, room temperature or cold as a side dish for meat or fish.

            

            (May be made up to 2 days ahead or frozen for 3 months.)

Almost spring...

We had a pretty mild winter on the French Riviera and the transition into spring was gentle and sunny... I thought it was time to take out my light shirts and shorts and start planting some pretty flowers.  But my mom warned me: "The "Cavaliers du Froid" and the "Saints de Glace" were coming.   You can't plant anything before "they" leave (the last one departs May 25!) and because it may freeze and there might be some hail!"  Yeah right.  Well, these old gardeners tales (and mom) still hold some truth and that's a good thing because they also brought with them some much-needed water.  So the weather here on the French Riviera during April and May can be quite changing.  The temperatures are still on the cooler side (compared to my days in Southern California...) and it can rain.

When my aunt visited us this last Sunday, there was a big storm during the night with wind and rain and then we had a beautiful sun come out in the afternoon after our lunch.  Was it that she had only came twice to visit "down here" in the last 20 years or was it the "Cavaliers du Froid"doing their thing?!  We speculated and joked a bit and had a wonderful time eating together and watching the kids play and hug.  It was so nice for me to cook a family dinner for the ones that were able to come.  I used to do it for my friends and clients in California and being able to do it now for my family makes me oh so happy!  And everyone had a great time too and loved everything.

All this talk about the weather and my family to say that it was not quite time for grilling outside!  This is a menu that reflects the transition into spring, that I was able to prepare mostly ahead and that everyone from 5 years old to 85 enjoyed...

Cucumber Slices with Herbed Goat Cheese and Tapenade
Another favorite and easy recipe.  Slices of English or Hot-House cucumber topped with fresh goat cheese mixed with chives and parsley.  A touch of cream to make it smoother to pipe out of a small zip-lock with a cut-corner.  Top with some store-bought black olive tapenade and a small piece of sun-dried tomato.  Assembled a few hours ahead and kept refrigerated.

Roasted Asparagus Wrapped in Proscuitto
And all time California classic for me.  Spears of asparagus (peeled) wrapped in a small piece (about a third of a slice).  Drizzled with some olive oil and baked, on a parchment lined baking sheet, at 400ºF for about 15 minutes.  Assembled a few hours ahead and just baked when needed.

Almonds with Rosemary, Fennel and Parmesan
1 ½ teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary¾ teaspoon kosher salt½ teaspoon fennel seedsFreshly ground black pepper to taste1 egg white1 ½ cups whole almonds¼ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese             Preheat the oven to 300ºF.  Line a baking sheet with silpat. Grind the rosemary, salt, fennel, and pepper in spice grinder.  In a medium bowl, whisk the egg white until it foams.  Add the spices and cheese.  Stir well to combine.  Add the nuts, stirring and tossing to thoroughly coat them.  Spread them in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet.  Bake for 30 minutes, stirring halfway.  The nuts will stick to each other and will need to be separated halfway through.  Slide the nuts, on the silpat, onto a rack to cool.  Store in a screw-top glass jar for a few days.

Butternut Squash Polenta
(Serves 8-10)
1 small butternut squash (About 1 ½ pounds)
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 tablespoons butter
¾ cup finely chopped onion (1 small)
2 ½ cup chicken broth
2 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 ¼ cups cornmeal
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

            Preheat the oven to 400ºF.  Cut the butternut squash in half lengthwise.  Rub with the olive oil and place, cut side down, on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.  Roast for about 30 minutes or until soft.  Cool and then remove the seeds.  Scrape the squash into a bowl and discard the skin.  Mash into a purée.  Cook the onion in the butter in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat, stirring, until very soft, about 8 minutes.  Stir in the squash and cook, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes.  Transfer to a bowl.           

(May be made the day before. Measure all the other ingredients for quick assembly)             

In the same pan, bring the chicken broth, milk, salt and pepper to a boil.  Add the cornmeal in a thin stream, whisking.  Cook the polenta at a bare simmer, stirring with a long-handled whisk and turning down the heat as needed to prevent spattering, about 5 minutes.  Stir in the squash mixture and cook 3 minutes.  Remove from the heat, stir in the cheese and serve immediately.

Stewed Sausage with Peppers and Swiss Chard
About 12 to 15 sausages, depending on the size.  I used a mix chipolatas and merguez...  in the states it would be some herbed italian and spicy lamb sausages.  You may use any type of pork, chicken or lamb sausages you like.  Pierce them and brown in a large dutch oven.  Remove from the pan and add a couple of sliced onions, 3 large peppers, sliced and the sliced stems of the chard.  Saute in olive oil with some salt, pepper and herbes de Provence until starting to soften and brown.  Add 6 chopped garlic cloves and the coarsely chopped green parts of the chard.  Cook covered for about 5 minutes.  Add the sausages and cook gently to finish cooking the sausages.  May be made ahead and gently reheat before serving.

Chocolate Fudge Bars
1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 cups packed brown sugar

2 eggs

2 tsp. vanilla extract

2 1/2 cups flour (I used petit épeautre which is a low gluten artisanal wheat flour.  But regular flour is very good too...)

1 teaspoon baking soda

3 cups quick-cooking rolled oats

1 (14 ounces) can sweetened condensed milk

1 (12 ounces) package semisweet chocolate chips

1 cup chopped walnuts

2 teaspoons vanilla ( I used vanilla sugar here)

            For the Chocolate Fudge Bars:  Preheat the oven to 350ºF.  Set aside 2 Tbsp. of the butter.  In a large mixing bowl, beat the remaining butter with an electric mixer on medium speed for 30 seconds.  Add the brown sugar; beat until well mixed.  Beat in the eggs and 2 tsp. vanilla.

In another bowl, stir together the flour and baking soda; stir in the oats.  Gradually stir the dry mixture into the beaten mixture. Set aside.

            In a medium saucepan, combine the reserved butter, condensed milk and chocolate pieces.  Cook over low heat until the chocolate melts, stirring occasionally.  Remove from the heat.  Stir in the walnuts and the remaining 2 tsp. of vanilla.

            Press two-thirds of the oat mixture into an 15-by-10-by-1-inch baking sheet lined with parchment paper.  Spread the chocolate mixture over it.  Dot the remaining oat mixture over the chocolate. 

            Bake about 25 minutes or until the top is lightly browned (the chocolate mixture will still look moist).  Cool on a wire rack.  Remove from the baking sheet with the parchment and cut into bars.

            (May be made up to two days ahead and kept at room temperature in an airtight container.)

            For the Glazed Strawberries:  Chill a plate in the refrigerator.  Wash the berries, and dry them thoroughly with paper towels.

            Place the currant jelly in a saucepan, and warm it over low heat until it has melted and is smooth.

            Holding the berries by their stems, dip them, one at a time, in the jelly.  When they are thoroughly coated, left the berries out and drain off any excess jelly and transfer to the cold plate.  Refrigerate until ready to serve.

            (May be made two hours ahead.)

Everyday Cooking à la Française...

Since I got back to France last year, the bulk of my cooking is done at lunch time for my mom and my uncle.  I pretty much cook everyday.  For them, dinner mainly consists of vegetable soup so noon is when I get to cook up some creative, fun and fast dishes.  I usually start between 11:15am and 11:30am and have lunch ready by noon.  Sometimes a little prep gets done earlier in the morning but mostly these dishes are quick and delicious.  So I thought I'd share with you some of them so you can use them for your week night meals.  Most of them are cooked in my LeCreuset iron skillet.  I don't measure anything when I cook these but I'll give you some pointers to recreate them in your own kitchen for your family.

And no I haven't gained any weight though I'm using a bit more cream (a version of half-and-half) and eating a whole lot more cheeses after each meal.  What can I say, it's such a French thing to do... and quality prevails over quantity.

Bon Appetit!

Sautéed Cauliflower and Spinach with Herbed Yogurt and Green Olive
Cut up a small head of cauliflower into thick slices and sauté the slices, on both sides, in olive oil in a  cast iron skillet.  Season with salt and pepper.  Add some white wine and water, cover the pan and cook until the cauliflower is tender.  Add some coarsely chopped spinach and smoked paprika and cook covered for a couple minutes.  While the cauliflower is cooking, mix some greek yogurt (or goat yogurt or fromage blanc) with a 1/2 crushed garlic clove and chopped fresh parsley or any fresh herbs on hand.  Chop up some pitted green olives and mix some olive oil and black pepper.  Serve the cauliflower topped with the herbed yogurt and green olives.

Beef Filet with Spinach and Jerusalem Artichoke
Peel and boil the jerusalem artichokes in salted water with a couple tablespoons baking soda until tender, about 20 minutes.  Drain, cool and cut into 1/2-inch slices.  In a cast iron skillet, heat some butter and cook the slices until nicely browned on each side.  Remove and keep warm.  Add the steaks and cook to desired doneness.  Remove and keep warm.  Add the spinach with some oil from sundried tomatoes.  Add some sun-dried tomatoes and serve all together.

Veal Scallopini with Creamy Mushroom Sauce
In a cast iron skillet, saute sliced mushrooms in some butter.  Remove to the side when done.  Add the scallopini and cook about a minute on each side in a bit more butter.  Add some white wine and deglaze the pan.  Add some light cream (half-and-half) and cook lightly.  Return the mushroom to the pan and sprinkle with chopped parsley.  Serve with rice than you can start while cooking the mushrooms.

Pork Tenderloin with Mustard Sauce
Cut a pork tenderloin in two pieces.  Brine the tenderloin in the morning in 4 cups water with 4 tablespoons coarse salt.  Drain and rinse.
Preheat the oven to 425ºF.  In a cast iron skillet, cook a small sliced onion in a tablespoon of olive oil until lightly browned and almost soft.  Add a couple cloves of garlic chopped up.  Push to the side in the pan and add the pork.  Brown the pork on two sides.  Add some white wine to deglaze the pan.  Add some light cream, a generous tablespoon of coarse mustard and more white wine.  Transfer to the oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes.  Let the pork rest 5 minutes.  Slice and serve with the sauce and some frozen french fries baked in the oven along the pork!  I've also served it with some quinoa tossed with slices of sun-dried tomatoes, parsley and toasted pine nuts.

Baked Salmon with Mustard Glaze, Red Rice and Swiss Chard
In the morning, cook the red rice in plenty of salted water for about 45 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400ºF.  Boil some water for the chard.  Mix together in a small bowl, two tablespoons of coarse grain mustard, two tablespoons chopped Italian parsley, one tablespoon honey and one tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil.  Top two salmon fillet with this mixture.  Season with salt and pepper.  Bake for 15 to 20 minutes.  Meanwhile, boil the diced white stems of the chard for 10 minutes.  Add the coarsely chopped green leaves and cook 5 more minutes.  Drain and add a bit of butter.

Chicken Breast Cutlets with Smoked Paprika Sauce
Saute the chicken cutlets in a bit of olive oil.  Add some smoked paprika, white wine and some light cream.  Cook for a minute or two.  Add chopped parsley and serve with rice.

Roasted Romanesco and Carrot with Whole Fish
Preheat the oven to 425ºF.  Toss sliced carrots with some olive oil, herbes de Provence, salt and pepper.  Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.  Bake for 10 minutes.  Do the same thing with a Romanesco cabbage cut into florets.  Move the carrot slices to one side of the baking sheet.  Add the florets to the other side and roast for 15 minutes.  Season your favorite small whole fish or small fillet in the same way as the vegetables and add to the baking sheet along the vegetables.  Roast for 15 minutes.   Serve all together.

Sautéed Turkey Breast à la Provençale
In a cast iron skillet, quickly saute pieces of turkey cutlets in some olive oil.  Remove to the side.  Add a sliced shallot and some garlic cloves.  Add some halved cherry tomatoes and cook for a couple minutes.  Add some chicken broth and white.  Cook for a minute.  Add some spinach and Niçoise olives.  Return the turkey to the pan for a minute and then serve with quick cooking polenta seasoned with salt, pepper and a tab of butter and grated parmesan cheese.

Mock Fettuccini à la Carbonara
Boil water for pasta and cook pasta while making the sauce.  Sauté lardons (or diced bacon) in butter in an iron skillet.  Add a sliced shallot and some garlic.  Cook until soft and the lardons are starting to brown.  Add some white wine, light cream and a tablespoon of Dijon mustard.  Cook for 5 minutes.  Add some grated parmesan cheese and canned peas.  Toss with cooked fettuccini and serve.

Pear and Chocolate Cake

"Inspired by your desire" is what my very talented cousins use as a moto for their very successful flower business.  And it must be in the family because I work a bit the same way when it comes to cooking... When I asked my cousin Audrey what she liked when it came to dessert, she said pears and chocolate.  So I pulled out one my favorite chocolate cake recipe and altered it a bit.  I poached some pears and came up with this delicious cake.  I made it gluten-free and nobody realized it but you could use regular flour as well.   Because there is no baking powder in this cake but plenty of butter, it comes out dense but very moist.

4 Bartlet or Bosc pears, peeled and cut in halves
4 cups water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup granulated sugar
7 oz or 200 grs bittersweet chocolate, chopped
5 oz or 150 grs unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
Generous pinch of salt
4 eggs
3/4 cup gluten-free flour (I used Schar brand for pastries)
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Bring the water and 1/4 cup sugar to a boil.  Add the pear halves and cook until just tender, about 10 to 20 minutes depending on their ripeness.  Let cool and with a melon baller, remove the seeds.

 Line a 9-inch sprinform pan with parchment paper and butter the sides.

Cut each pear half lengthwise but keeping the top intact.  Fan the pears at the bottom of the pan, cut side down.

Preheat the oven to 300ºF or 150ºC.

Melt the chocolate in a bowl in the microwave.

With an electric mixer, beat the butter and 1 cup sugar until very smooth.  Add the salt.  Add the eggs, one by one, alternating with the flour and beating well in between each addition.  Mix in the chocolate and vanilla extract.

Spread the batter on top of the pears and bake for about 40 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean or a few crumbs attached to it.

Remove from the oven and let sit for 10 minutes before inverting onto a cake plate.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

When life gives you truffles, make omelet...

It happened yesterday.  My uncle's friend came down from the mountains again but this time, he brought truffles instead of sanguins (I posted about these in the fall), and I made sure to keep my phone close so he wouldn't grab it by mistake and go back home... Honestly, I've always had this love for anything truffle but never cooked them myself.  So I asked hime what do you do since he is a great cook, has his own restaurant and knows how to find these gems: an omelet.

Rinse the truffles well under cold water and scrub well with a soft brush.  Beat the eggs together until very fluffy (I used 6), add shavings of a big truffle and a bit of salt.  Melt some butter or oil in a skillet and cook your omelet until still runny...  And so we did..  It was delicate and delicious.  Next time though, I'm going to let the truffles sit in the eggs overnight to further infuse their earthy flavour into the eggs.  Bon Appetit!

Valentine's Day and more...

Wow, I can't believe it's been 2 1/2 months since I wrote anything on this blog!  What happened?!  Well, Instagram is easier... The holidays came and went.  2019 started and the month of January with all its new resolutions went out the window.   And now, we are approaching Valentine's Day smack in the middle of February!  February!!!  Is time going faster as I'm getting older?!  May be because this is the year I am turning 50, I am in complete denial and burying my head so far down that I don't see how time flies...

Anyway, I thought I'd stop a second and say hi to those who follow me.  I hope you are all doing well and enjoying the new year.  I made some gluten-free cookies to mark the day tomorrow and spread a little love around.  I got the recipe from a blog called twopeasandtheirpod.  I substituted gluten-free flour, cause you know, I thought I'd have a couple too... and I dipped them in white chocolate instead of dark chocolate because they are very chocolatey already.

I wish you all a Happy Valentine's if you decide to celebrate it.  And if you don't, it's still a good excuse to have some chocolate... :-)